29 September 2009
19 September 2009
Eric Bordelet is making serious french ciders with a focus on technique and process that is akin to winemaking; thus yielding ciders with incredible acid, minerality, structure, balance, and elegance. Bordelet started his career as a sommelier in Paris, but eventually found his way back to his home in Normandy where he began making both apple and pear ciders from heirloom varietals. The Poire Authentique is a no-nonsense, elevated way to start a meal; and is a natural match with goat cheese or fall fruit desserts. It is an off-dry cider with just 4% alcohol. It's effervescence is somewhat light---and slips away swiftly, so lets be careful to make sure that it stays intact by keeping it cool and under pressure every time a bottle is opened.
This cider always takes me to a special place in the fall when I just couldn't get away from it. If it wasn't so compelling you may have called it a rut. I was just coming around to truly thinking about wine as anything more than a treat after a long night at work, and I would say that drinking Poire Authentique as my shift drink for the better part of a season very lovingly began to creep past my palate and was instrumental in creating the place in my spirit and brain where wine touches me, filling me with questions and fantasies of the people and plants so far away that produce this perfectly packaged time capsule that finds it's place in so many different circumstances. Some of these trees are over 300 years old!!!!! This is serious shit!!!! And yet it still feels good to relax, listen to the rain, and watch the ember burning in the wood oven as another busy night comes to an end. Sell it sell it sell it! $10/glass
07 September 2009
This organic and biodynamic Macon is not to be missed. It is a delicate introduction to the extremely interesting nuances that Chardonnay is capable of. What compelled me to write about this wine was that it was the first wine we tasted at the tasting last weekend. I, as usual; was running late. I brushed my teeth seconds before scurrying out the front door, and not ten minutes later; this wine was in my mouth. I had been so impressed when I tasted it with aaron a few weeks before, so I looked around the room smiling proudly and expecting jaws to drop, but it looked as if we all had mouths full of chalky mint gel refusing to allow anything to pass through it's steriline grip. I knew that some Cab Franc and Chateauneuf could permeate this hygienic fog. And about an hour later I was back where I had started, the Guillot-Broux Macon Cruzille; and it was clear that this is precisely where I wanted to be.
The vineyard has been farmed organically since the 1950's, but was previously fallow since the time of phylloxera---but first cultivated by monks over 1,000 years ago!!!!
Cruzille is north of the town of Macon, and produces some of the best priced white burgundies.
With clay and limestone soils, this wine is a delicate balance of citrus and earth with notes of peach and white tea, slight peony flower, and a long but totally clean finish.